The history and culture of Kitakyushu is deeply rooted in the production of iron and steel. In this article, we’ll explore the essential role this city played in the modernization of Japan, its rebirth as a tourist destination, and the beauty of its natural surroundings.

History of iron manufacturing

In 1901, the Yawata Steel Works, the symbol of Kitakyushu, began operations as Japan's first integrated facility for the production of iron and steel. At the time, Japan was in the process of expanding its military, and securing these essential metals was a major challenge. In addition, the country wanted to match the growing industrial might of countries such as the United Kingdom, France, the Netherlands, and the United States. The Yawata Steel Works was built to meet these demands.

Kitakyushu was chosen as the home for this vital new facility for several reasons, chief among which was the abundance of the raw materials required for iron and steel production, especially coal and limestone. Iron manufacturing uses large quantities of water for cooling, and Kitakyushu, facing the sea, had an unlimited supply. The last and most important ingredient was iron ore, and Kitakyushu’s proximity to China made it an ideal import location.

A culture born from steel

As well as turbocharging the economy and Japan’s manufacturing power, the new Kitakyushu steel industry quickly began to forge a new local culture. In those days, steel mills were extremely labor-intensive, and with the Yawata Steel Works operating 24 hours a day, it needed vast manpower. With an army of steelworkers working in shifts, demand for food and refreshment never ceased. A new drinking culture called kaku-uchi, or ‘corner drinking,’ **emerged, in which workers would set up small tables in the corner of liquor stores to drink and socialize. Meanwhile, in the vicinity of the Yawata Steel Works, restaurants serving cheap and filling Chinese-style gyoza dumplings began to multiply. Many of these restaurants are still going strong today, serving the eponymous Yawata Gyoza beloved by locals, and the casual, welcoming style of kaku-uchi still underpins the watering holes of Kitakyushu.

Outside the city, in the coal mines supplying the steelworks, a brand new choral tradition called Tankobushi evolved. Each group of workers, such as diggers, transporters, and sorters, had its own song, which they would sing as they worked to keep their spirits and energy levels up. Although coal mine songs as a concept were not unique to Kitakyushu, Tankobushi became so famous that it is now part of the national festival of Bon Odori. There are various theories as to why it became famous. According to one theory, the songs spread as coal miners became wealthy enough to hold lavish drinking parties, where they sang Tankobushi. Whatever the case may be, the hard-working coal miners of Kitakyushu are now immortalized in one of Japan’s most famous festive events.

A temporary decline

The prosperity granted by the steel industry did not last long. Government regulation and popular concerns about pollution curtailed the expansion of Japan’s heavy industry, and the arrival of the Sanyo Shinkansen, a bullet train service connecting neighboring Fukuoka with Osaka (and, by extension, the rest of Japan) made Kitakyushu a less fashionable destination. Its standing was further diminished when domestic air travel began to take off—the city did not have an airport with a runway long enough for jet aircraft, but Fukuoka did. Many companies that were based in Kitakyushu moved to Fukuoka City, and Fukuoka City soon became the largest city in Kyushu.

A retro renaissance

In recent years, Kitakyushu has embraced its industrial heritage by giving some of the essential buildings from the steel era a new lease on life. The city’s port district, Mojiko, has been renovated as a tourist attraction called Mojiko Retro. The port’s most iconic buildings, including the customs house and Kyushu Railway head office building, have been restored, and the latter is now the Kyushu Railway History Museum. Tourist boats operate out of the port to provide views of the city from the sea, while the Mojiko Retro Observation Deck offers elevated views over the city from dry land. Mojiko is also famous for its curious tradition of banana auctions. Historically, banana traders would sell bananas that had ripened in transit for cash on the spot, enticing as many people as possible with a colorful selling style to try and sell their bananas before they went bad. Demonstrations are still held in Moji Port as part of Kitakyushu’s cultural preservation efforts.

Yawata Steel Works today

Over time, there have been many changes at the Yawata Steel Works, which is still in operation today. The facility is now operated by Nippon Steel Corporation, a private company, and it supplies high-grade steel sheets to automobile factories, both in Japan and abroad. While the plant’s economic fortunes may have waxed and waned in other respects, its proximity to mainland Asia has not changed, making it a powerful presence in the Asian steel trade. Of course, its steel-making facilities have undergone major upgrades, while some of the buildings, such as its red-brick office building and its repair shop, have been designated as World Heritage sites.

Tourist destinations in Kitakyushu

Since the Yawata Steel Works is still operational, it is not fully open to tourists. However, there are many other tourist attractions in Kitakyushu, and to conclude this article, we would like to introduce three of the best.

(1) Kokura Castle

If you are interested in history and castles, you should visit Kokura Castle. Perfect for those who want to recall an era older than that represented by Mojiko Retro, this iconic black and white castle is surrounded by modern buildings, but it nevertheless maintains a commanding presence. The castle was rebuilt in 1959, but like other reconstructed castles in Japan, it retains its historic atmosphere, and it also plays host to seasonal festivals. If you visit Kokura Castle, be sure to take a walk in the adjacent garden, which is a recreation of that of a daimyo's mansion in the Edo period (1603-1867). There are also events in the building where you can experience the traditional Japanese tea ceremony for a fee.

(2) Hiraodai Karst Plateau

Kitakyushu is also a great place for nature lovers. There are about 200 limestone caves on the nearby Hiraodai Karst Plateau, and three of them, the Senbutsu, Mejiro and Oshika limestone caves, can be visited as tourist attractions. Cool in summer and warm in winter, these caves are well maintained. If you prefer to enjoy hiking under the wide blue sky instead, the plateau itself offers spectacular panoramas and family-friendly activities. At Solaland Hiraodai, for example, families can play park golf and try their hand at making ceramics and soba noodles.

(3) Kitakyushu Municipal Museum of Art

Finally, the Kitakyushu Municipal Museum of Art, located in the center of Kitakyushu City, has a truly striking exterior that immediately captures the attention. The museum houses a wide range of works, from traditional Japanese artists such as Hiroshige Utagawa to world-class artists such as Monet. The city’s love of art extends to cinema, as can be seen at the Kitakyushu International Film Festival, held once a year.

In this article, we have summarized the culture of Kitakyushu entwined with its history of steel manufacturing. This historic city is in the midst of a cultural rebirth, and there has never been a better time to visit.

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