Tsukuba: city of research

In part 1 of this article, we learned Tsukuba’s claim to fame: having more researchers per capita than any other city in Japan. But how did the city come to be a thriving center of research and technology? To answer this question, we must look into Tsukuba’s history.

The birth of Tsukuba City

The story of Tsukuba began in 1963. At that time, the relocation of the nation's capital from Tokyo was under discussion for various reasons. Several proposals were presented, one of which was to move certain universities and government offices out of Tokyo. Eventually, the focus was narrowed down to testing and research institutions, and the concept of a dedicated research and education city was proposed. This project had three objectives: to help ease overcrowding in the capital; to reform the research system by concentrating testing and research institutions in a single new city; and to establish a new university. Field surveys drew up a list of candidate locations including Mt. Fuji, Mt. Akagi, the Nasu Plateau, and Mt.Tsukuba. The Mt. Tsukuba area was eventually chosen for its proximity to Tokyo, abundant water resources, and flat topography. The University of Tsukuba was established in 1973, and the relocation of 43 testing and research institutes was completed in 1980.

Tsukuba Expo '85

In 1985, the International Science and Technology Exhibition was held in Tsukuba. The theme of the 184-day event, “Dwellings and Surroundings - Science and Technology for Man at Home,” attracted over 20 million visitors, and provided the impetus for advancing the local transportation infrastructure. The pre-existing Joban Expressway was extended to Tsukuba Science City ready for the Expo, and expressway buses began operating between Tokyo and Tsukuba, further improving accessibility between the two cities. Another dramatic improvement in accessibility occurred in 2005 with the opening of the Tsukuba Express train service. This railroad connects Tokyo’s Akihabara district with Tsukuba City, and the 45-minute service boosted the population flow from the capital to the research city. Even today, the population of Tsukuba continues to increase as Tokyo grows ever more crowded.

Despite the current upward trend, however, the population of Tsukuba is expected to continue to decline after peaking in 2035. A key aspect of the city's present-day plans to head off this predicted decline is to support start-ups in a bid to encourage further population influx. If you are interested in learning about this support, please refer to part 1 of this article.

Tsukuba Space Center

Those who have read part 1 of this article already understand the significance of the University of Tsukuba and the National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology (AIST) in Tsukuba. In addition to these national leaders in research and technology, the Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA) also has a presence in Tsukuba. JAXA’s Tsukuba Space Center develops and operates satellites and rocket systems, analyzes satellite images, and trains astronauts. JAXA’s H-II rocket takes pride of place at the Tsukuba Expo Center, reminding visitors of the city’s invaluable contributions to space research. The Tsukuba Space Center is popular with visitors of all ages, from children who dream of becoming astronauts to adults with an interest in technology, and there is no admission fee. Free audio guides are available in Japanese and English for some of the exhibits, and visitors can take a paid guided tour of the astronaut training area and the operation control room of JAXA’s experimental module Kibo, although reservations are required. The center is a 10-minute cab ride from Tsukuba Station, and thanks to the Tsukuba Express, it’s also easily accessible from Akihabara, making it an attraction worth considering for tourists staying in Tokyo.

Sightseeing spots in Tsukuba

The Tsukuba Space Center is great for space lovers, but what other sightseeing spots does Tsukuba have to offer? First and foremost, the city’s surroundings have much to offer hikers and nature lovers, including Mt. Tsukuba, the mountain that gave the city its name. Although by no means the highest mountain in Japan, with a summit at 877 meters above sea level, Mt. Tsukuba offers stunning views across the vast Kanto Plain that includes the Tokyo area. Mt. Tsukuba features in a famous Showa-era collection of essays by mountaineer Kyuya Fukada, in which he describes and recommends his top 100 Japanese mountains.

The base of Mt. Tsukuba can be reached by car or bus, while the summit is accessible by cable car, ropeway, and beginner-friendly hiking trails. When I say beginner-friendly, I speak from experience—the first time I climbed the mountain was during a kindergarten field trip. One of the charms of Mt. Tsukuba is that there are so many things to see. In addition to its plum groves and tangerine orchards, visitors can enjoy seasonal flowers, as well as striking geological features. The mountain is home to some unique rock formations, some of which have their own names and even stories. The cable car, ropeway, and several mountain trails offer many options for summiting the mountain.

Mt. Tsukuba has long been a beloved mountain, and is home to a Shinto shrine of great significance. Shinto teaches of gods that dwell in the mountains, and Japanese people to this day are drawn to the mountains to pay their respects. Belief in the god of Mt. Tsukuba is said to date back over 3,000 years. With its unique terrain, ecosystem, and historical background, Mt. Tsukuba certainly earned its place in Fukada’s collection of essays, and it continues to draw thousands of visitors every year.

A bicycle-friendly city

Tsukuba is perfect for cyclists, with dedicated cycle paths that make getting around on two wheels a breeze. If you’re a mountain bike or BMX rider, Tsukuba has even more to offer. Mountain bike enthusiasts can tackle the 4.4 km long Higashi-Tsukuba course on Mt. Tsukuba, while BMX riders can put their skills to the test at Cycle Park Tsukuba. Located at the foot of Mt.Tsukuba, the facility offers courses for a range of experience levels from beginner to advanced. Bicycle rentals are also available.

The Tourist Information Center in front of Tsukuba Station has a bicycle assembly space, and rentals are also available. Please note that most Japanese train lines, including the Tsukuba Express, permit bicycles only when folded and stored in a wheeled bag. Certain buses running in Tsukuba also allow bicycles, but since space is limited, making a reservation is usually recommended.

In this article, we have covered the origins of Tsukuba City and learned a little about what makes it so attractive to people seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Nestled at the foot of the iconic Mt. Tsukuba, the city might not feature in a tourist guidebook, but space enthusiasts, cyclists of all stripes, and nature lovers would do themselves a disservice to overlook this oasis of natural beauty so close to the capital. If you ever find yourself feeling stifled by the towering skyscrapers of Tokyo, simply hop on the Tsukuba Express.

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